Polar Plunge!

 

Thursday, November 9^th, 2023

Thursday morning we were located in Dorian Bay off Damoy Point. The kayak team was the first to disembark so we quickly geared up, jumped in a Zodiac, and zipped across the bay.  It was relatively calm, but shortly after the entire group was in the water and paddling, we noticed the wind increase and an abort call came across the radio from the expedition leader.  The wind was reportedly blowing over 20 knots at the ship, although it wasn’t that bad where we were paddling. This official decision was much to the chagrin of our passionate and fearless kayak team leader, Eloisa, who rolled her eyes in frustration.  But we had no choice.  We had to retreat to the ship.

Gentoo penguins hanging on the bluff

Henry and I quickly switched from our kayak gear to standard hiking outerwear and made our way back to the ship’s marina at the stern.  We cruised to Damoy Point under a huge glacier with a large section of ice that looked like it would calve at any moment.  Two crabeater seals relaxed on an ice flow as we passed by.  Once on land, we made our way up to a British hut which is used as a rescue shelter.  We were allowed to go inside for a brief tour.  It appeared well appointed with a large stove and some outdated canned goods lining the shelves.

Inside the rescue hut with guide Falcon Scott, who happens to be the grandson of the British Antarctic explorer Robert Falcon Scott

The expedition team stamped down a long snowy trail that led to the top of a bluff where we got to enjoy a large colony of gentoo penguins.  Henry noted an article he read about how the gentoos are the species of penguin that is best adapting to climate change—they can breed under various ground conditions-- while others such as the Adelie and chinstraps are struggling.  This colony is clearly flourishing high up from the beach.

In the afternoon, the ship repositioned nearby just off Port Lockroy, a British science research base. The base was established during WWII as a lookout for German ships and submarines before it was repurposed in the 1950’s as a research center.  With calmer seas at Port Lockroy, we were allowed to kayak—it was magical.  We paddled close to large icebergs and watched a plump Weddell seal climb up to relax on the shore.  Making our way into the protected harbor, we also checked out a moored, twin-masted ship that had bravely sailed across the South Ocean. Gentoo penguins zipped all around our kayaks in the clear, shallow water.  It was quite an amazing spectacle.

Point Lockroy Harbor

When we returned to the ship it was time for our polar plunge!  Among the 109 passengers on board, there were only twenty-five hardy souls—many crazy Americans--eager for the dip. But the hardiest of the group may have been Reinhardt, a towering man in his seventies from East Germany.  He made sure he was the first in line and did not want to come back in after he jumped.  He frolicked around enjoying the icy water like an elephant seal.  The guides eventually had to cajole him back aboard.  Henry jumped a few participants later, howling with delight as he climbed up the ladder to the inflatable.  Next it was my turn, and I landed a decent can opener move with a nice splash.  But since I was holding my GoPro, I was unable to effectively swim against the strong current.  If not for the tether around my waist, I might have drifted out to sea!  It was definitely a thrilling experience.  One of the guides said it “hurt” to hit that freezing water, but we felt it was more like a shock, followed by powerful bracing sensation that is not unpleasant, but it does take your breath away.  As we reentered the ship’s lobby, a staff member handed us shots of vodka.  They did not seem to effectively track who got their complimentary shots, and Henry and I kept making loops around to watch other jumpers, each of us receiving a total of four medicinal drinks of vodka!

Climbing back up after my exhilarating polar plunge

Before dinner, Henry and I invited our kayak group to join us in sharing a bottle of dry champagne we had been saving since embarkation.  Much to the chagrin of the expedition team and in violation of IAATO rules, I shot the cork high into the sky and out into the bay.  The setting sun blazed down on us warmly as we all enjoyed our celebratory bubbly.  It was certainly an amazing day from start to finish!

Enjoying champagne with our kayak team